Pattern for drafting shirt-sleeves



(No Model.)

T. J. GOODWIN. PATTERN POB. DRAFTING SHIRT'SLEEVES.

No. 501,337.; Patented July 1'1, 1.89{ 5.

ATTORNEYS.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

TERENCE J. GOODWIN, OF SYRAOUSE, NEW YORK.

PATTEIR'N FOR DRAFTING SHIRT-SLEEVES.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 501,337, dated July 11, 1893.

Application led February 13, 1893. Serial No. 462,101. (No model.)A

To all whom, t may concern:`

Be it known that I, TERENCE J. GOODWIN;

0f Syracuse, in the county of Onondaga, in the State of New York, have invented new and useful Improvements in Shirt-Patterns, of which the following, taken in connection with the accompanying drawings, is a full, clear, and exactdescription.

My invention relates to improvements in patterns for drafting the sleeve pieces of shirts, and hasv for its object the production of a practical, simple, durable, and eifective device consisting of adjustable plates or sections capable of ready adjustment for facilitating the drafting ofa well fitting sleevepiece for shirts; and to this end it consists in the detail 'construction and arrangement of parts, all as hereinafter more particularly described and pointed out in the claims.

In describing this invention, reference is had to the accompanying drawings, forming a part of this speciiication, in which like letters and figures indicate corresponding parts in all the views.

Figure 1 is a face view of my improved pattern having portions of its overlying part-s broken away. Fig. 2 is a similar face View representing the pattern as somewhat expanded, and Figs. 3 and 4 are sectional views, taken respectively on lines -B--, Fig. 2, and -4-4- Fig. l.

My present invention consists of a pattern, which is readily adjustable to any required size of sleeve-piece for enabling an operator to readily and correctly draft a sleeve-piece of the required size without the exercise of a high degree of skill.

for regulating the length of the central portion of the sleeve, a top plate composed of lengthwisely adjustable arms -B--B- eX- tendinglaterally from one end of the plate -A- and having their upper edges curved downwardly from their inner ends for regulating the width of the upper or shoulder end of the sleeve-piece, a bottom plate consisting of lengthwisely adjustable arms -C-O- extending laterally from .the opposite end of the plate -A- for regulating the lower or wrist end of the sleeve-piece, and the lengthwisely adjustable side plates -D-D- having their upper ends hinged to the outer ends This pattern consists. of the lengthwisely adjustable plate -A- clination of the longitudinal sides of the j sleeve-piece. The plate --A- consists of the sections -a-ot'- having their inner or adjacent ends lapped one upon another and provided with lengthwise slots -a2-a3-. A suitable lug eis secured to the lower or inner end of the section -aand is formed with a shank -eregistered with the slot -ain the section -aand with a shoulder -e2- resting upon the top face of said section -a-. This lug serves to guide the sections -a--o/f in their lengthwise movement, and this guiding action is facilitated by the shank -fof a clamp -F, which may be of any desirable construction for clamping said sections -a-ain their adjusted position and guiding said sections in their adjustable movement. As best seen at Fig. 3 the shank of the clamp -F is passed through an opening -a4- in the upper or inner end of the section -a-, is registered with the slot ct2- in the section -a-, and is provided at one end with a shoulder -f bearing against the under face of the section a-. A nut 2- is movable on the opposite end of the shank and bears against the upper face of the section -a-. The section ot--n of the plate -A- is provided with a scale -1- along l which is movable the upper edge -a5- of the section -ct-. This scale --lis formed with graduations -20- --2l-, -22-, 85e., to -27- extending from the-central portion of thesection 0t toward its lower end, and serves to regulate the length of the central portion of the sleeve-piece. It willthus be readily apparent that the plate 'A- is quickly adjustable lengthwisely until the desired graduation is exposed in front of the edge a5 of the section --a-, and that its sections -a-aare then held positively and eifectively in their adjusted position by the clamp -F.

The arms -B-B- for regulating the upper or shoulder end of the sleeve-piece each consist of sections -b-b, the sections ZJ-b*- being iixedly secured to one end of the plate A in any desired manner as by rivets h2n and the sections -b-bbe- SoV ing movable lengthwisely lupon the sections -b-b. The upper edges -bS-b# of the sections -b-h# of each arm -B- are curved downwardly from their inner ends, and said sections are formed with lengthwise slots -b4, which are preferably concentric with the edges -b3-. The outer end of each section -bis provided with a lug -e-, which is :registered with the slot -54- in the corresponding section -b*, and isof the same construction as the lug -epreviously described. The inner end of each section bL- is provided with a clamp -F- similar to the clamp F previously described, and this latter clamp -F- is movable lengthwisely in the slot b4- in the corresponding section b-, and serves to firmly secure together the sections of the arms -B- provided therewith when said sections are adjusted to the desired position. Each of the sections -bis provided with a scale 2 along which is movable the inner edge -195- of the corresponding section -b-, and this scale is provided with graduations -8l%, 33-, Btl- -36-, 375-- to -51- extending along the slot-b4-in said section -h from its inner end outwardly.

The arms-C-C for regulating the lower or wrist end of the shoulder piece are each composed of sections -wc-c-, the sections c-c-being xedly secured to the opposite or lower end of the plate -A- by rivets 0r other securing means cz-1 and the sections -c-cbeing movable lengthwisely upon the sections c-. The lower edges -c3c3 of the sections -c-cof each arm C are preferably curved downwardly from their inner ends, and said sections are provided with lengthwise slots -c4 extending in a plane perpendicular to that of the plate -A-. The outer end of each of the sections cis provided with a lug -e, which is similar to the lugcpreviouslydescribed,is movable in the slot c4- in the overlapping section -c', and serves to guide said overlapping section in its movement upon said section A suit-able clamp F similar to the clamp -F- previously described, is supported in the inner end of each of the sections -cand the shank -fof said clamp is movable in the slot -04- in the corresponding section -c-, and serves to hold the overlapping section -c-in its adjusted position. Each of the sections -cis provided with a scale 3- along which is movable the inner edge-cs--of the corresponding section --c-, and this scale is provided with graduations -32-, -36-, 40-, to -52- extending along the slot c4-in said section -cfrom its inner edge outwardly.

The plates -D-D- for regulating the length and inclination of the sides of the sleeve-piece are each of similar construction, and are composed of sections -d-cl, the section -d being hinged by a pivotal pin -CZL- to the outer end of the section 5'- of the corresponding arm -B-, and the section -cZ- being hinged by a pivotal pin -CZ3 to the outer end of the section -c of the corresponding arm O The adjacent or inner ends of the sections -d-clare formed with lengthwise slots -fZ4-, and movable in said slots are two lugs -e-e-, which are of similar construction to the lug -epreviously described, and are secured respectively to the lower end of the section -deagnd to the upper end of the section -d-. The outer edges of the upper ends of the sections -cZ-cZ- of said plates -D-D- are concavely curved, and the outer edge of the lower ends of the sections -cZ-d are conveXly curved for giving the edges of the corresponding portions of the sleeve-piece the proper curve when drafted by marking around the outer edge of my improved pattern.

It will be readily understood by one skilled in the art that, as the plate A- is adj usted lengthwisely in conformity with the desired length of the sleevepiece, the side plates -D-D- are also adjusted len gthwisely, and that their sections d-dswing upon their pivotal pins w-CZ2-cZ'`- for permitting the lengthwise adjustment of the plate --A-, and that these sections also swing on their pivotal pins for facilitating the adjustment of the arms -B-B-, -C*C-.

In order that my invention may be readily understood I have shown the same at Fig. 2 as adjusted for the sieeve-piece of a sleeve twenty-three inches long designed for a shirt having a breast measurement of thirty-six inches; it being understood that the breast measurement of the shirt governs the width of the upper portion of the sleeve. Consequently the division -23 is exposed directly in front of the edge -a5, and the division -36- of the scales -2 and -3- are exposed at the inner sides of the edges b5c5- of the sections b-cof the arms -B-C- at the opposite ends of the plate -A-. My pattern may be similarly adjusted to any other measurement of sleeve, and, after the pattern is adjusted, the sleevepiece may be readily drafted by placing the pattern upon the fabric and marking around the outer edge of said pattern. It is apparent that one of the arms -B-, the corresponding arm C-, and the interposed side plate -D may be dispensed with, and that a sleeve-piece can then be readily drafted by folding the fabric and placing the folded edge directly beneath the longitudinal center line of the lengthwise plate -sA-, and by then marking around the edges of the remaining plate D and the arms -B-C. It is also evident that, if desired, the central plate -A- may be dispensed with, and the outer ends of two of the corresponding sections of the side plates -D-D-, as the sections dcZ-, may then be rigidly secured to their supporting arms as B-B-, and the outer ends of the remaining corresponding sections of the side plates -DD-, as the sections -cZ'-cZ- being pivotally secured to their IOO IIL;

supporting arms as -C-C- will permit of the lengthwise expansion of my improved pattern. This is, however, no material modification of my present invention.

The operation of my invention will be readily perceived rfrom the foregoing description and upon reference to the drawings, and it will be particularly understood that the same is simple, practicable, durable, and eectiv'e.

Having thus fully described my invention,l

what I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-

l. The herein described pattern for the sleeve-piece of a shirt, the same comprising-a lengthwisely adjustable plate -A- having a substantially straight longitudinal edge, a lengthwisely adjustable arm -B- extending laterally from one end of the plate -A- and having its upper edge curved downwardly from its inner end, said arm -B- consisting of lapping sections, one of which is flxedly secured to the plate -'A- a lengthwisely adj ustable arm -C--f extending laterally from the opposite end of the plate -A- and consisting of lapping sections, one of which is iixedly secured to the plate -A-, and a lengthwisely adjustable plate -D having one extremity hinged to the outer end of the arm -B- and the other extremity hinged to the corresponding end of the arm C-, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.

2. The lherein described pattern for the sleeve-piece of a shirt, the same comprisinga lengthwisely adjustable plate --A- composed of a section -aprovided with a scale -1- and a section -d-- movable rectilinearly along said scale -l-a lengthwisely adjustable arm -B- extending laterallyfrom one end of the plate -A-and having its upper edge curved downwardly from its inner end, said arm -B- being composed of asection -biixedly secured to one end of the plate -A and provided with a scale -2- and a section -bf movable lengthwisely of the scale -2-, a lengthwisely adj ustablearm -O- extending laterally from the opposite end of the plate -A-, said arm C being composed of a section -ciixedly secured to the opposite end of the plate A and provided with a scale 3- and a section -cmovable lengthwise of the scale -2'', and a lengthwisely adjustable plate -D- having one extremity hinged to the outer end of one of the sections of the arm -B- and having its other extremity hinged to thefcorresponding end of one of the sections of the arm -C-, lsubstantially as and for the purpose set forth.

3. The herein described pattern for the sleeve-piece of a shirt, the same comprisinga lengthwisely adjustable plate A4 for regulating the length'of the central portion of the sleeve-piece, an upper plate composed of lengthwisely adjustable arms -B--B- xedly secured to the upper end of the plate -A- and having their upper edges curved downwardly from their inner ends, a length- `wisely adjustable plate composed of arms -C--G- fixedly secured to the lower end of the plate -A- and formed of less length than the-arms -B-B-, and lengthwisely adjustable downwardly inclining side Aplates -D-D- having their upper extremities hinged to theouter ends of the arms -B--B- and their opposite extremities hinged to the outer ends of the arms Cl-Q substantially as and for the purpose set forth.

4. The herein described pattern for the sleeve-piece of a shirt, the same comprisinga lengthwisely adjustable plate -A-- for regulating the length of the central portion of the sleeve piece, an upper plate composed of lengthwisely adjustable arms -B-B- tixedlysecured to the upper endof the plate-A and having their upper edges curved downwardly from their inner ends,4a` lengthwisely adjustable plate composed of arms C-C- fixedly secured to the lower end of the plate A and formed of less length than the arms -BB and having their lower edges curved downwardly from their inner ends, and lengthwisely adjustable downwardly inclining side plates DD having their upper extremities hinged to the outer ends of the arms -B--B-s and their opposite extremities hinged to the outer ends of the arms -C-O- and having the upper portions of their outer edges concavely curved and the lower portions of said outer edges convexly curved, substantially as and for the purpose described.

5.` The herein described pattern for the sleeve-piece of a shirt, the same comprising a lengthwisely adjustable plate -A- for regulating the length of the central portion of the sleeve-piece, said plate -A- being composed of a section -aprovided with a scale 1 and a section -a movable lengthwise of said scale, an upper plate composed'of lengthwisely adjustable arms -B--B-lxedly se- ICO EIO

and having their upper edges curved downto the plate --A-Y- and provided with scales -3-3-` and sections --ccmovable lengthwisely of thescales -3-3, and lengthwisely adjustable downwardly inclining side plates -`DD- having their upperextremi ties' hinged to the outer ends of the sections -b-b"- of the arms -B--B- and theiropposite extremities hinged to the outer endsv of the sections ecu-0'#- of the arms `--C-C and `having the upper portions of their outer edges concavely curved and the lower portions of said outer edges conveXly curved, substantially as and for the purpose specified.

6. The herein described pattern for the sleeve-piece of a shirt, the same comprising lengthwisely adjustable arms -B-B- having their adjacent ends relatively iiXed and having curved upper' edges, lengthwisely adj ustable arms -O-C- of less length than the former arms -B-B, having their adjacent ends relatively fixed and lengthwisely adjustable side plates -D-D- consisting of lapping sections movable upon each other in rectilinear planes parallel with the planes of extension of said side plates DD and TERENOE J. GOODWIN.

Witnesses:

CLARK H. NORTON, E. A. WEISBURG. 

